Thursday, September 18, 2014

From whale spouts to eagles wings: exploring Oregon.

When my parents talked to me about a graduation trip, my mind immediately went to London. My three month study abroad there made me fall in love with England. I wanted to go back. I wanted to explore Scotland again and the tiny little towns that hold the character and beauty of the English countryside. I also considered going somewhere new. I've always wanted to see Venice or Rome. I want to see the giants causeway in Northern Ireland and the ancient ruins of Pompeii. Europe has so much to offer.

Due to cost and timing though, an overseas trip seemed unreachable with each passing moment. I started considered a closer to home trip. I had an inkling of an idea. I found a hotel on Pinterest that seemed worth a visit but who would go to Newport, Oregon? I mean, what does Oregon have to offer that England cannot top?

Nevertheless, I scouted out the terrain. Newport is a small coastal town that boasts a lighthouse and beach trails. The hotel that I found is really what drew me to this tiny town. Sylvia Beach Hotel is a book lovers dream. The three store building is settled on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Each room is dedicated to a specific author. From Shakespeare to Hemingway to Rowling, even Dr. Seuss for kids.

A little more research and we had a plan for a trip. We'd start on the coast, spending time at my hotel find, then see the redwoods in Northern California and end up in Portland for a few days. The plans were vague and we didn't book hotels in an effort to have a relaxed vacation, free to change our minds should we wish to.

And I'm so glad we ended up going to Oregon.

The land itself is beautiful. Lush green forest covers the hills and mountains. Pristine beaches stretch as far as you can see. Yes, it was cold, but I loved it. Oregon was untouched country. We saw eagles and elk and whales and sea lions and so much more.

And one of the best parts? Sylvia Beach Hotel.

Yes, it's in a small town and it's an old hotel. The floors creak and the rooms have the musty small you get in old libraries and your grandparents house. The atmosphere more than makes up for it though.

A typical day starts with having a cup of coffee or tea in the library overlooking the ocean. There could be five or six people there with you but everyone is quiet. Silence is understood there, not awkward. During the day you can mosey down the beach or drive up to the lighthouse. The day is yours to explore and there's no hurry to be anywhere. The hotel offers dinner in the evening, where you can chat with other guests as the sun sets on the beach. People are friendly, willing to talk or sit in silence. Then you can retire to your room or the library and read to your heart's content. It's a wonderful place. It gave me high hopes for the trip.

From there, we traveled south along the coast into California. It might have been my prejudice against California, but I felt a difference in the atmosphere almost immediately. Nevertheless, we continued to our intended destination, the famous redwoods. We booked a hotel with less than friendly staff and somewhat suspicious tenants and tried to focus on the beauty of nature around us. The trees that surround us were hundreds of years old and so grew in the oddest shapes. I loved exploring and getting lost in the trees (trying to ignore the slight fear of getting ticks and Lyme disease). We found a hidden beach and tried watching our Spurs win in the finals. I'm so glad I went, but I was already longing for the Oregon coast.

So after a few days, we traveled back up north, cutting through the heart of the State to end in Portland. Portland held one thing for me: Powell's bookstore. This independent bookstore was great. I could spend days in the multiple story, city block store and still feel incomplete. Books upon books upon books. New books and used books and rare books and everything in between. Every town needs a Powell's.

The rest of the trip was spent mostly outdoors. We explored the Lewis and Clark landmarks and took an excruciatingly slow train on the Hood River. We drove up Mt. Hood, watching the temperature drop the higher we climbed. Finally we ended our trip with a mile and a half hike up the wettest part of Oregon to the top of Multnomah Falls. It was sad to go back to 90 degree weather when I was just getting used to 60's and rainy.


The redwoods were amazing, Mt. Hood was spectacular, and Multnomah Falls was breathtaking, but if I ever end up in Oregon again, I know I'll be spending my time in a small beach town in a blue building with wonderful stories inside.



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